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How to Pick the Perfect Suit Fabric Weave

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Why let a pushy salesperson take advantage of your lack of fabric knowledge to sell you something inferior? We've condensed everything you need to know into 5 simple things to help you pick the best fabric for your next men's suit. Step number 3? Weave.

Is a tweed suit better than a twill suit? In fact, what’s the difference between twill and tweed, and why should I care? You can dress sharper and feel more confident when you know a few basics about one of a suit’s foundation building blocks: fabric weave. Here’s all you need to know.

To make sure you get top quality at a great price - every time you buy a suit - remember these five things:

1. Colour

2. Composition

3. Weave

4. Pattern

5. Weight

In this article, we'll discuss the importance of fabric weave.

The “Super” count

The thread count of a men's suit fabric determines:

  • Price
  • Quality
  • Comfort

When it comes to suiting fabrics, thread count is referred to as the “Super” number.

The Super count refers to the thickness of the wool thread and the higher the count, the finer, lighter, more luxurious and expensive the fabric. But there's no need choose a fabric with an extremely high thread count because while wool marked as Super 180s and above is luxurious and soft to the touch, it is also susceptible to snagging and its durability is generally not as good. However, it sure does look and feel like a million bucks!

So if you're wondering where to start, here are some basic rules:

Super 80s - 90s

These are durable entry-level wool fabrics, great for business suits and everyday suits.

Super 100s - 110s

These suiting fabrics offer great quality, durable wool with superior fall over Super 80s - 90s; ideal for business suits and everyday suits.

Super 120s - Super 130s

When you step up to these fabrics, you'll get good quality, fine and smooth durable wool, edging into the luxurious with exceptional fall. Ideal for business suits, blazers and everyday suits.

Super 140s - Super 160s

These luxurious textiles are made of fine, light and smooth wool and are perfect for executive business suits, wedding suits, dinner suits and tuxedos.

Fabric weave Types

The next thing to consider is the way the fabric (regardless of thread thickness and ply) is woven together.

There are thousands of different ways of weaving cloth, each with its own name. Fortunately, most men's suits utilize a handful of common production methods and standard materials. Some terms refer entirely to the material used, others designate a specific woven pattern, and a few designate both at once.

Plain Weaves

The simplest cloth to construct is a plain weave. Did you ever weave potholders, baskets or some other handicraft project involving interwoven straps as a child? If you did, you made a plain weave because any weave where the threads pass alternatingly over and under one another is a plain weave.

This creates a cloth that is identical on both sides; it is commonly done in wool to produce the cloth for suit jackets and trousers. Virtually any thread can be used to make a plain weave, although worsted wool — a specific type of yarn in which the wool fibers lie alongside one another in long bundles — is traditional used for suits and produces a very strong and comfortable fabric.

If you hold a plain weave fabric up to the sun, you'll see light shining through. This is because plain weaves are typically not woven tightly and thus allow air to pass through them freely.

Twill Weaves

A more complicated form of weaving involves off-setting the thread each time it passes under a thread or group of threads running in the other direction. This process creates the twill family of weaves.

Twill woven cloth has a distinct diagonal pattern to it so it always looks different on one side. Most men will recognize the slanted pattern of a twill weave in their blue jeans or in modifications such as the decorative herringbone (repeated V-shapes or chevrons in the fabric) and houndstooth.

Many fabrics are characterised both by being twill-woven and by using a specific material; chino, for example, is a soft cloth made from twill-woven cotton.

A tight twill weave in worsted wool is used to create the tough fabric known as gabardine, which is still used by some high-quality tailors to make the pockets of their bespoke suits.


What does all this information boil down to? While there are thousands of fabric weaves from which to choose, you can satisfy most of your wardrobe needs by sticking to either a plain or twill weave textile. VisitMontagio Custom Tailoring for great business suits for men and let us help you choose the best fabric weave to suit your style.

Image source blog.fabricmartfabrics.com.

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