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How to Choose the Perfect Blazer Jacket

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Section: Men's Sport Jackets & Blazers - Blog

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What does the well-dressed man wear when he wants to make an impression but doesn’t want to wear a suit? The traditional choice is a blazer, which is also called an odd jacket because it doesn’t have a pair of matching trousers. It’s a hard working wardrobe item that can be paired with jeans for dressing down or odd trousers for a dressy look. If you don’t already own one, you’re limiting your wardrobe options and style.

Men's blazersare incredibly versatile wardrobe items. A classic navy blue blazer is usually one of the first blazers a man should own or add to his clothing collection. Match it with odd trousers but remember, it isn't a substitute for a suit. Instead, it is a functional alternative to fill the gap between a tailor made business suit and casual attire.


Having evolved over the years, the modern blazer features these characteristics:

  • Single or double-breasted styles
  • Cut from a wide range of colours
  • Utilises a variety of buttons and patches

Blazer Styles

Like suits, there are three blazer styles:

  • American
  • Italian
  • English

Because of the increased frequency of travel and fluid borders, finding all three styles in your area shouldn't be difficult. Interestingly, while the country styles provide historical perspective, hybrid mixes of the three styles are common and often, preferred.

  • American Style Blazer: This is a two-button navy blue jacket with soft shoulders. It can have either patch or flap pockets and features a notched lapel. Although centre vents are commonly used, we recommend you choose double vents because they enhance your body type.
  • English Style Blazer: Designed with more structured shoulders and a suppressed waist, these blazers build out the chest. They are available in either single or double-breasted styles. However, they typically have double vents and if you select a double-breasted blazer, it will always have peak lapels. Single-breasted blazers usually have notched lapels.
  • Italian Style Blazer: The fabric of these blazers is lighter in weight and the entire jacket build is less structured. Extremely soft shoulders and a flexible, gently constructed inner lining allows the jacket to float next to the wearer's body. Italian blazers have more flair regardless of whether they have vents or not.

Blazer Buttons

Buttons are a blazer's most noticeable aspect and can range from delicate smoked-mother-of-pearl buttons to heavy, solid-gold family heirlooms passed from one generation to the next. Most manufacturers make their jackets with brass buttons, but if you'd like to increase the versatility of your blazer, buy a few sets of buttons and change them seasonally. For example, in spring and summer, use mother of pearl; for fall, use silver, and then switch to gold in winter.

Blazer Fabrics

Blue worsted serge is the classic blazer fabric, although any navy worsted or flannel wool can be a classic choice, too. Rougher weaves or fabrics with a slight pattern transform the jacket from a blazer to a blue sports coat. How's that for versatility?

How Blazers should Fit

Blazers should fit in much the same ways as suit jackets or sports coats should.

  • Shoulders should not over-extend by more than half an inch; they should allow a full range of arm motion.
  • There should be enough give in the chest to allow you to button the jacket.
  • Sleeves should extend to the wrist bone and show ¼ to ¾ of an inch of shirt cuff when you stand erect.
  • The jacket length should cover your back completely

What to Wear with a Blazer

  • Gray Flannel Trousers: These complement a wide range of sports jackets in addition to being the perfect partner for blazer jackets. These are comfortable, classic and durable.
  • White Cotton Slacks: A good choice for the summer, these trousers require some personality to pull off and should be worn with care.
  • Quality Denim (Jeans): While there are many styles and brands of jeans to choose from, we recommend Levi 501s and 505s. The quality and colour of your jeans dictates your outfit's formality. Dark-coloured 501s and a blazer enhance your appearance while shredded designer jeans and a double-breasted blazer detract from it. Never wear baggy jeans with a blazer. Period. A blazer works best with nice slip-on dress shoes, a crisp business shirt, and a simple pocket square.

As we mentioned earlier, if you don't own at least one blazer jacket, you're handicapping your style and mix and match opportunities. Once you own one, you'll wonder how you ever got along without it. While you could buy it off-the-rack, if you're like most men, who can't get a decent fit with off-the-rack garments, you'll discover it's less expensive to buy a custom made one up front than to pay the expensive alterations costs to get a good fit.

At Montagio Custom Tailoring, we pride ourselves on helping men get the best fit. Our master tailors help you:

  • Choose the right fabrics and designs to flatter your body type
  • Take meticulous measurements for the right fit
  • Create a customized pattern for your blazer
  • Make any final tweaks to the finished garment

Find out more about men's blazer jackets by visiting our Sydney showroom.

Image Credit © Mark Hryciw | Dreamstime.com


We tailor make mens suits, jackets and shirts for all occasions. Each garment is custom designed, precisely made-to-measure and is guaranteed to fit you perfectly. Unlike others, we offer you end-to-end service and a personalised styling session where we take the time to understand your needs to ensure you get the colour, style and fit you want.

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Since 2010, we've paved the way for uncompromising men to get suited up in style with our full service tailored mens suits, shirts and coats. Our showrooms are packed full of suit samples and thousands of fabrics making it easy for you to get the look and fit you want. We offer a remarkably personal shopping experience and specialise in individually hand crafted garments for business, weddings, formal and casual events. We have personally tailored mens suits for thousands of happy customers, and you too can experience the same red carpet treatment. Book your personal appointment today to have your uniquely styled and perfectly tailored garment ready within a few short weeks.

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