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Wedding Suits: A Complete Guide

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Amidst the myriad rules and etiquettes surrounding wedding preparations like dress shopping, cake selection, and venue booking, the importance of the wedding suit is often neglected. Attention to the groom's wedding outfit is just as crucial as the bride's. Don't settle for ordinary; aim for extraordinary - channel your inner James Bond! Your wedding suit should make a statement and reflect your style on this special day. And above all else, it should fit you like a glove.

A custom-made suit, individually tailored to your preferences, will ensure that you look and feel exceptional on your wedding day and be at your confident best, and it will definitely come across in the photos. 

As the creative director and founder of Montagio, I’ve designed thousands of wedding suits over the years with many different designs to suit each client’s unique requirements and personal taste.

This guide will provide expert tips to help you stand out and feel your best when saying "I do."

How many months before a wedding should you buy a suit?

We all like to pretend it’s a misconception that most men leave things until the last moment, and when it comes to your wedding suit. Your wedding date is unlikely to move, so we recommend that you order your wedding suit around two to three months prior to the big day, giving you plenty of buffer for any final adjustments to refine the fit. Many well organised grooms order their wedding suits six months before the day (mostly because of gentle reminders from their better halves).

How long does it take to tailor a suit?

The turnaround time is generally 4-6 weeks for a custom suit, but it can be done faster if you’re short on time. Custom shirts are a bit quicker – approximately 3-4 weeks.

All the groom’s party and all the groomsmen

Once you’ve said “I do” to the suit, it’s time to round up the guys including dad, grandad, your brothers and mates and book a group fitting, so that everyone can look awesome in those wedding photos.
It doesn’t matter if you already know your way around a suit and how to look good, one of our experienced stylists can provide personalised advice for your occasion, and for your body type to ensure we create the perfect wedding look for you.
We can also help you suit up your groomsmen with proper, perfectly-fitting groomsmen suits, and ensure their look is complementing and enhancing your look – from advice on the colour and design of their suits and shirts, as well as accessories such as ties and pocket squares.

When should the groom's party be fitted?

Making memories is not just about the big day, but also the experiences in the lead up such as the bucks party, and also getting your whole gang fitted for their suits – have a laugh about who has the biggest bicep measurement (and who has the smallest crotch measurement), and a round or two of single malts to add a touch of class to the otherwise larrikin atmosphere (or perhaps further adding to it).

When it comes to getting your groom’s, party suited up and looking sharp, 3 months is plenty of time to get measured, and have some buffer to make any final adjustments to refine the fit if required.

While each groomsman will have his own personal style & preferences - one might be a jeans and t-shirt kind of guy, one might want to add his own twist, one might have never worn a suit before, and one may have wondered in hungover from the night before and not know where he is or what the hell is going on (trust us, there’s always one).

One of our stylists can make the process personal, fun and painless by making suggestions to accommodate some personal groomsmen preferences, whilst still maintaining a cohesive aesthetic to ensure they complement the groom.

Who to call for custom-designed suits for grooms and groomsmen?

Contact us today. Whether you're after something formal, casual, or anywhere in-between, if you have a look in mind, we can create it. Or if you don’t know where to start, simply let our expert stylists guide you.

Make it a statement or keep it elegant and reusable. Either way, you will look your smashing best with millions of styles & colour combinations.

Do you offer deals on groomsmen's suits?

We can fit out your entire wedding party from head to toe! Just ask us about our group deals when you book your free wedding-style session. What we can offer generally depends on the number of groomsmen and the amount you spend.

Who pays for the suits at a wedding?

This is a tricky question. Weddings these days often break all the ‘traditional moulds’ and etiquette as most people choose to make their own rules for what they want for their wedding. Traditionally, the groom pays for their own suit and offers to pay for the groomsmen’s suits as well. But let’s face it, that can be costly. Some people believe that if a groomsman has accepted the job they will pay for their own suit. But the truth is, unless your groomsmen have been part of a wedding before, they may not know that and might be considering the same question but unsure how to ask.

In some cases, the groom chips in for the groomsmen suits. It all depends on your group dynamics – how close you are with the groomsmen, what the expectations are (e.g. one of your groomsmen might have been the groom previously and asked you to pay for your own suit for his wedding, so he’s set the tone).


In short, if you are financially able and comfortable then offer to pay, but ensure you are upfront with who is footing the bill before you go suit shopping.


How do I pick a suit for my wedding?


The theme and the season play a role in determining what sort of wedding suit you buy. For example, is yours a garden wedding, beach wedding, church wedding or taking place in an outdoor venue? Each theme and venue may require a different style.
Now, we're not for a moment suggesting that you go with a themed wedding complete with costumes for all (although they can be fun). What we mean by theme is to choose a base colour, material or look and match it to your venue and colour scheme.
The classic three choices for men’s wedding attire are a two-piece suit, a three-piece suit, and a tuxedo.
H2 To waistcoat or not to waistcoat: that is the ultimate question.
H3 Should I wear a 2-piece or 3-piece suit to the wedding?

The 3-piece suit is the most traditional choice for the groom on the wedding day. Unless you’re going to your wedding wearing a tuxedo, a 2-piece suit just isn’t going to cut it for the star of the show.
Stylist tips:
- For a formal look match a tone-on-tone waistcoat with your suit.
- For a more polished, dapper and distinguished look add ivory, cream or a complementing waistcoat colour.
- The 3-piece suit consists of a waistcoat with 5 buttons and is the most popular choice. This shows approximately 1 and a half to 2 inches of the waistcoat when the jacket top button is closed.
- For the waistcoat fitting, follow the same rules that you would the suit, no constricting and no straight jacket feeling, you want to always be ready for a little dance floor action at the reception (although, another tip keep it to the reception).
The truth is, the three-piece suit is not only stylish but functional allowing you to ditch the jacket and hit the dance floor hard without looking like a sweaty mess. Serving something sweet with your sweet, sweet moves before the cake arrives.
The waistcoat keeps you looking sharp like your dance moves and prevents your tie from flying around whilst making your way around the dance floor busting out all the stops like Patrick Swayze. Keep it classy people.
And for beach weddings, while this sounds counter-intuitive, it is actually recommended to have a 3-piece suit so you can ditch the jacket and still look the part in the waistcoat after the ceremony and main photos.

Suit vs Tuxedo

What is the difference between a suit and a tuxedo?

The difference between a suit and a tuxedo is the incorporation of silk/satin in the design and the lapels. Suits are generally made with consistent fabric on the jacket and trousers with no special lapels or satin leg strips, whereas tuxedos generally have satin trims – e.g. satin covered buttons, satin covered lapel, and satin on the pocket trims. These satin trims can be configured in different ways to achieve a unique and personalised look.

Keeping your wedding outfit for an occasion to suit

A wedding suit can be reused for business, parties, and other occasions. Whereas a tuxedo is a statement look but limited in its reusability due to the satin embellishments.

Asian_Wedding_Suits

Looking lux in a tux

What makes a tuxedo?

Tuxedo_Wedding_Suit

A tuxedo is not all black and white!

A tuxedo is not just a fancy black suit worn with a bow tie. There are different types of tuxedos including coloured tuxedos. Sure, a black and white tuxedo is a classic but navy tuxedos, burgundy tuxedos and off-white tuxedos are becoming an increasingly common choice for weddings for that added unique flair. If you want the next level of flair, you may even opt for a jacquard or damask tuxedo.

Lapel styles

Lapel_Styles_for_Wedding_Suits

Notch lapel

The shawl lapel isn’t as versatile as the notch lapel. The notch lapel is traditional, timeless and classic, and is a go-to everyday lapel style that is popular due to familiarity.

The definition is quite self-explanatory, it is characterised by a concave notch where the fabric lapels meet the collar fabric. It’s as simple as that. Where to wear it gets tricker, as although a notch lapel is the standard style on single-breasted jackets, it is not a classic tuxedo style. Therefore, even though traditional style etiquette has become blurred over time, it’s generally not used for a wedding suit or tuxedo.

Peak lapel

Peak lapels appear on the wider side, and are located at the front of the coat, sitting just below the collar. As the name implies, a peaked lapel comes from the appearance of a peak or a point at the top edge of the lapel, where it juts out at an angle and points upwards. Peak lapels are a solid choice for tuxedos and wedding suits and are preferred over a notch lapel for weddings.

Although they are viewed as more formal than notch lapels, don’t shy away! Peak lapels make a statement and make you look broader in the shoulders and slimmer in the waist due to the angle that they flare out at. A win-win.

Versatility is always the name of the game. You can find subtle takes on the peak lapel that work well with a slender tie and shirt choice. As with many wedding suit design decisions, it is all based on your personal style.

Shawl lapel

A shawl lapel is exactly what it’s called: a shawl. Characterised by the smooth, rounded edges, it has no notches or peaks and has a continuous strip of fabric running from the lapel to the collar and back to the lapel, which is tapered off when it hits the button closure.

The shawl lapel gives the tuxedo a sleek look and is one of the most formal lapel styles for jackets. Generally, a shawl lapel is not very common on a suit and is almost exclusively for tuxedos or formal dinner jackets. The shawl lapel is usually black although this may not always be the case, especially when matched with a coloured tuxedo.

Of course, in today’s evolving world of men’s fashion, it is not always one size fits all. Some like to match coloured tuxedos or coats with a black contrasting lapel for a sharp and bolder look. Others like a complimentary coat and lapel colour. Heck, I have even worn a tuxedo jacket with a T-shirt and jeans. Of course, I pulled it off .

Choosing the wedding suit by cut

The classic fit suit

Classic_Wedding_Suits_-_How_it_should_fit

The classic fit suit is a traditional cut that is form-fitting with mild tapering in the waist. This silhouette makes movement easy and is the roomiest fit, sitting well along the contours of your body with a generous fit on the chest, waist and thighs.

The slim-fit suit

Slim_Fit_Wedding_Suit_-_How_it_should_fit

A slim-fit suit is much more body-hugging, narrowly fitted across the shoulder and chest and features higher armholes than the classic fit. The trouser legs are straight and slim, offering only enough fabric to move without restriction, and sit lower on the waist. The slim-fit suit is designed to create a more fitted look giving the appearance of being slender and taller.

Fit is king: How your suit should fit

how_to_wear_your_suit

The single most important factor in looking good is THE FIT. Our expert stylists take up to 30 measurements and note any nuances in your body shape to ensure a fit that's perfect for you.

Alterations before the altar

Should you choose to make minor adjustments to get your garments fitted, we'll take care of the process for you. We will inform you when your adjusted garments will be ready for a second fitting at our showroom which usually takes 1-2 weeks. 

Please review our alterations policy for further information.

Details matter: How to design a look that's a perfect match for your theme and personal style

Single-Breasted vs. Double-Breasted Jacket

single_vs_double_breasted_suits

Single-breasted wedding suit jackets

A single-breasted wedding suit jacket may feature 1 or 2 button fastenings and are flattering on all body types. It is the more common choice of jacket style for grooms.

Double-breasted wedding suit jackets

Double-breasted wedding suit jackets are traditionally dressier than single-breasted jackets. They have been around for decades and are classic and elegant, featuring overlapping front flaps and usually a 4 or 6 button fastening. Although they have a vintage vibe, they can be tailored in sharper styles and sleek cuts.

Double-breasted wedding suit jackets create the illusion of a narrower waist and broader shoulders and are perfect for a groom that wants a bold look.

Unlike a single-breasted jacket that cuts away after the top button to expose the front of the trouser, a double-breasted jacket appears longer because it is closed all the way down and is cut straight, hiding most of the top part of the trouser. So, it can make your legs look shorter.

Also, unlike a single-breasted jacket, a double-breasted jacket must always be kept buttoned to maintain the silhouette. Due to the extra fabric that crosses over, if the jacket is opened, it can look quite baggy.

They are not flattering for all body types, for instance if you are larger in the mid-section, a double-breasted jacket is not recommended as it can have the opposite effect of looking less tapered. It further accentuates your body shape – for instance, if you are slim in the mid-section, you’ll look even slimmer. However, if you have a bigger mid-section, it can make you look even bigger.

It is rare to find a double-breasted tuxedo, but at Montagio we can create one for you.

How to Match a Dress Shirt with Your Wedding Suit

The dress shirt is the unsung hero that lets you and your tie or bowtie shine. A wedding shirt is a canvas to flatter your suit and match your vibe and the wedding theme. Usually, not much thought goes into the shirt design, but for a wedding, you may want to do something a little bit more special...

Sure, a white dress shirt is the most popular wedding shirt option, but it doesn’t need to be boring. There are many options such as cuffs and collars to choose from to put a little flirt in your shirt.
Here are some options to choose from, choose wisely my friend.

Shirt Collars

Wedding_Shirt_Collar_Spreadd

Wing tip collars

The wing tip is the most formal shirt collar option and gets its name from the collar points that look like little wings. A wing-tip collar is designed to be worn with a tuxedo and a bow tie.

Stylist tip:

  1. If you’re going to wear a pre-tied bowtie with an adjustable strap, avoid a wing tip collar shirt because the entire strap will be exposed, and you’ll be able to see the clip. It is only recommended to wear a self-tie bowtie with a wing tip collar shirt.
  2. If you are going for a less formal look, or wearing a necktie to your wedding, then a wing tip collar isn’t for you but there are optional shirt collars that are much more versatile like the spread collar. Also, if you want to wear a pre-tied bowtie, then spread collar is a good choice as it folds down and covers the strap.

Spread collars

The spread collar is the most common shirt collar. It really is the goldilocks of ties that suit them all. It works well with suits and tuxedos, as well as bowties and neckties. Spread collars come in a variety of options such as the regular spread, cutaway, or Windsor spread collars.

Shirt Plackets

If you are not a shirt construction hobbyist then clearly, you’re missing out and secondly, you may not know what a shirt placket is. But that’s okay, thankfully, I spend my weekends studying shirt construction history and can let you know that a shirt placket is the centre strip of fabric, where the shirt buttonholes lie. What’s more, there are options - hold on to your plackets!

Front placket

The most common shirt placket option is the front placket that is folded over and sewn with a fused interlining. You can’t go wrong with a front placket, it has a beautifully clean, classic and symmetrical look.

No placket (French front)

For a minimalist feel, a placket-less French front gives your shirts a cleaner look. French front does not have the sewn strip of fabric or fold over like the front placket. They are ideal for both formal and casual wedding shirts.

Covered placket (fly front)

The covered placket fly front is a formal style that features an extra piece of fabric that covers your buttons. Leaving you looking fly, my guy!

Tuxedo front (plain front)

A tuxedo front has removable studs (those black shiny buttons). Just remember, let the tuxedo front live up to its name and never wear it without a tuxedo jacket. Don’t go rocking it like 007 in the office. Keep it only for special occasions like your wedding.

Shirt Bibs


Shirt bibs are common for tuxedo shirts and are characterised by an additional panel on either side of the centre placket of the shirt. The typical wedding shirt bibs include pleated designs with vertical pleats (which are usually 1/4th inch in width, and typically between 7 to 10 pleats on each side). Another variation of shirt bibs is the pique style, which is made from textured fabric.

Wedding shirt cuffs

Wedding_Shirt_Cuffs_Options

Barrel cuffs

Barrel cuffs are held closed by your buttons and do not require rolling or cufflinks. Barrel cuffs can come in different button configurations, the most typical being the 2-button adjustable style. You can also select the shape of the cuff – either square, rounded or the most popular options, angled.

French cuffs

French cuffs (also known as double cuffs) elevate your look. They are more formal shirt cuffs that are rolled back and held in place by cufflinks. What’s more, they give you a chance to add some beautiful cufflinks to complete your look.
For a sophisticated and elegant statement wedding look, we suggest pairing your custom tuxedo with a custom white tuxedo shirt with French cuffs, wingtip collar and a pleated bib.

Tuxedo or wedding suit accessories

While the rest of your wedding look communicates effortless sophistication and style, your accessories should tell the world you still know how to bust a move on the dance floor… at least after a few drinks.

What neckwear should I use to tie the knot?

Wedidng_Bowties_vs_Neck_Ties

Bowties are the traditional choice of neckwear to match your tux or suit and include many options such as the batwing, straight end, pointed, diamond point or butterfly. Bowties are made to impress. They can make a dramatic statement and help to make you feel special on the most important day of your life.

Stylist tips:

  • Bow ties look incredibly classy in black silk and help you stand out in a crowd.
  • They can be colour matched to your groomsmen’s ties and come in many styles, shapes, sizes and fabrics to show off your personality and unique style.

However, they are not your only option to tie the knot...


Neck ties are comfortable and cover up the buttons of your shirts. They are better for heftier or shorter grooms, as they help to elongate your figure. They look great with a 3-piece wedding suit and are easy to tie - so no panicking about how to tie it on your big day!
You can either match your tie to the wedding colour scheme, or just pick something that works best with your suit, considering the colour and style.

Remember, a modern wedding style allows for wiggle room for personal expression. this is your wedding day, you should stand out and feel good. So, if you’re a bow tie or necktie guy, half of looking good and feeling like a million bucks on your day is confidence in what you’re wearing.

Let your cufflinks shine- You stud!

Cufflinks and studs are a fun way to add some personality and let your personality shine when wearing a formal suit. Cufflinks can come in many varieties and styles, from simple plain gold or silver ones to something more extravagant with crystals or diamonds – it all depends on your personality and if you prefer being understated or blingy. I recommend matching the cufflink metal with your wedding band and your watch.

Pocket Square

Adding a little colour or a timeless pattern in your breast pocket can make you look dapper and certainly not square - a pocket square can really tie together your look. A man wearing a pocket square is a man that has confidence in himself and his abilities whilst demonstrating he will be a dutiful husband that is really, really good at folding things like laundry. Be that man.

Stylist tips:

  • A pocket square shouldn’t feel out of place with the rest of your suit, including colour and material. Although it can add a splash of colour, be mindful to ensure it does not clash with the rest of your outfit – it is meant to be complementary to your look, not the centre of focus.
  • You can get a lot of mileage out of the solid white or black pocket square - they’re versatile and often look good with everything. Just ensure there is contrast against your suit fabric colour.
  • You can add a silk, linen, cotton or wool pocket square to complete the look.

Cummerbund, vest, belt, suspenders or side adjusters?

Cummerbund

While cummerbunds may be considered somewhat old-fashioned, if you decide to include one in your wedding suit ensemble, make sure the material complements your lapels. Steer clear of bold choices like hot pink cummerbunds, unless that truly reflects your personal style - after all, individuality is key. It’s best to choose one only: a vest or a cummerbund - the choice is yours!

Belt

A belt is not just holding your pants up (while that is an excellent reason to wear one), a nice dress belt can pull together the look of your wedding suit. Just ensure to match the colour of your belt with the colour of your shoes.

While you can wear a belt with a wedding suit, you should never wear one with a tuxedo. If your pants have loops, then they are not tuxedo pants. For a tux opt for side adjusters instead.

Side Adjusters

A more and more popular option for holding the trousers up are side adjusters. These are buckles with straps that are attached to either side of the trouser waist band and are part of the trouser. If you have side adjusters, you will not have any belt loops on the trouser.

Trouser_with_belt_loops

To tighten the waist, side adjusters can simply be pulled. The best thing about side adjusters is that they are convenient since you don't have to spend time threading a belt through the loops and also, trying to find a belt that matches the colour of your shoes each time you change your shoes. Finally, side adjusters are much more comfortable when you are sitting as there is no buckle or stiff leather band digging into your belly. Have I converted you yet?

Suspenders

Suspenders are another accessory that help to hold your trousers up. If you opt to wear suspenders, you would not have a belt or belt loops, generally speaking. You could still have side adjusters since the front and back of the waistband are clean.
Good quality suspenders will come in leather and have leather loops at the ends that hook onto buttons that are attached to the trouser front and back. The button configuration depends on the style of the suspender – you can get either an X or a Y style. For an X style, you would have 2 buttons on the front left, 2 buttons on the front right, 2 buttons on the back left and 2 buttons on the back right. For a Y style, the only difference is, instead of the 4 buttons on the back of the waistband, there are only 2 buttons in the centre back.
Nowadays, suspenders are used either for practicality (if you have a heftier build and a belt is uncomfortable), or if you’re going for a specific vintage look.

Put your best foot forward.


It shouldn’t come as a surprise that your shoe colour should complement your suit. Black leather oxford or dress shoes work perfectly with almost all wedding suits. However, you may also consider patent black leather shoes for a tux. Other popular colours are shades of brown or oxblood (burgundy), depending on the wedding look you’re going for.
Stylist tips:


  • When it comes to matching your footwear with a tuxedo, less is usually more. A tuxedo is designed to draw the eyes up to your face, don’t deflect or take away from you or your tux by sporting some over-the-top shoes.

  • Patent leather is simple, elegant and an easy, go-to choice paired with a tux. The shine of the patent and the lapel makes it an ideal match.

  • Sleek cap-toe shoes are a combination of matte and patent leather that adds subtle variety whilst still keeping the focus above the waist on you and your tux.

  • We all love a loafer, and no other wedding shoes have been proven to improve your dance moves like the loafer. Sure, wandering eyes are sure to pause at a beautiful velvet slip-on or grosgrain loafer but they command all the right attention.

Wrapping it up


Ultimately, the key point to remember is that it's your wedding day. While this guide is here to help inspire and educate you, don't forget to infuse your own personal style into your custom-made wedding suit. You deserve nothing but the finest for your big day.

Looking for the best custom-made wedding suit experts?


Contact Montagio today. We know how to dress to impress, and we'll even throw in a healthy dose of personal style advice to boot. Of course, a perfect fit is guaranteed.

Whether it is for the races, garden weddings or even if you’re trying to nail the Miami Vice look (we won't ask why), Montagio can create a smart casual look that's perfectly tailored to beat the odds.

It doesn't matter what image you want to project, we offer a truly personalised experience, specialising in custom-designed, perfectly fitted suits, blazers, sports coats, shirts, and shoes.
Our expert stylists will help you to design a look that's a perfect match for your occasion and personal style. Our showrooms are visually packed with designs that inspire, plus thousands of fabric options, making it easy for you to get the look you want.

Frankly, we won’t let you walk out until we’ve tailored your perfect garment.
Since 2010, we have custom-tailored looks for thousands of happy customers. To experience the same red-carpet service, book your personal appointment today.

Never bought custom-made before?

Wondering what all the hype is about? Here's why you'll never go back to off-the-rack:

THE MONTAGIO DIFFERENCE

FIT IS KING

The single most important factor in looking good is THE FIT. Our expert stylists take up to 30 measurements and note any nuances in your body shape to ensure a fit that's perfect for you.

DETAILS MATTER

With thousands of fabrics and countless customisation options, our expert stylists will help you to design a look that's a perfect match for your occasion and personal style.

WHEN YOU LOOK GOOD, WE DO TOO

Quite simply, we will stop at nothing to ensure you look damn good. We offer real end-to-end service and believe that every customer deserves not only an amazing suit but a red-carpet experience too.

Tailor Made FOR EVERY OCCASION

We tailor make mens suits, jackets and shirts for all occasions. Each garment is custom designed, precisely made-to-measure and is guaranteed to fit you perfectly. Unlike others, we offer you end-to-end service and a personalised styling session where we take the time to understand your needs to ensure you get the colour, style and fit you want.

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Never bought custom made before?

Wondering what all the hype is about? Here's why you'll never go back to off-the-rack:

How It Works

About Montagio

Named in GQ Magazine's "Best Tailors" list, and the highest reviewed tailor on Google, Montagio has paved the way for discerning men to get suited up with style. We offer a truly personalised experience, specialising in custom designed, perfectly fitted suits, shirts, coats, and shoes for for business, weddings, formal and casual events. Our showrooms are visually packed with designs that inspire plus thousands of fabric options, making it easy for you to get the look you want. Our expert stylists will advise and professionally fit you and frankly won’t let you walk out until we’ve tailored your perfect garment. Since 2010, we have custom tailored looks for thousands of happy customers. To experience the same red-carpet service, book your personal appointment today.

Simon Frazer

Montagio did a great job on wedding suits for me and my two groomsmen. Bally provided us with fantastic service and the result was definitely superior to an off-the-rack option... more »

Kiran Dosanjh

I have bought a total of 11 pieces custom made so far - quality and attention to detail is spectacular, material choice is broad and the input customers have in creating the exact look they want is a great experience... more »

Roy Soliman

I went back for another suit, a few shirts and some ties. Outstanding! I had so many complements on my new suit yesterday! more »


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