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Do You Know How to Spot a Cheap Suit?

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Section: Essential Men's Suit Guide - Blog

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We’ve all fallen into that too-good-to-be-true trap. You spot a bargain so unbelievable that...well, you know how it goes. If we’re honest, we all have a horror suit in the back of the wardrobe. To avoid making that mistake again, check out our cheat sheet for telling the Yugos from the Bentleys when it comes to suit shopping.

What Size Are you?

Seriously, if the assistant in whatever men's store you’ve wandered into asks you this question, it’s time to turn on your heels and do your best Usain Bolt impression. You'll never see tags on well-made suits bearing the letters S, M, or L. This is a surefire sign that whatever garment (we hate call to it a suit) you’re about to invest your hard earned cash in was slapped together by a machine in some factory.

No Sir, No wasted material Here

Take a peek inside a pair of well-tailored suit pants, like those made by Montagio (we like to blow our own trumpet occasionally,) and you'll notice there seems to a fair bit of wasted material. It just hangs there and looks like we forgot to finish the job and cut it off.


However, the rationale here is that with the average man’s penchant for the finer things in life like the odd scotch or a large steak, chances are you'll need to let those pants out eventually. Let's connect the dots now: lengthening pant hems or letting out the waist are the reasons for the extra material. Most mass suit manufacturers skip this step to cut costs.

Those creases will fall out

Ever heard the expression it’s all in the shoulders? Well, when it comes to the fit of a suit there is no truer gauge than the shoulder fit. Don’t let an amateur fill your head with waffle about how the gathering or creases in the shoulders will fall out as you wear your tailored suit. Another explanation you might hear is it’s because you’re wearing a jumper, although why you’d wear a jumper when suit shopping is a mystery.


A well-fitted suit should have smooth shoulder lines. We understand all men - regardless of height or weight - have different sized and shaped shoulders and a different posture, but it seems cheap suit manufacturers do not understand this simple concept of human evolution – no two men are exactly alike. Suits should fit snugly, yet comfortably around the shoulders with minimal if any bulges, creases or gathers. Of course, there is an exception: for those "hard to fit" body shapes such as those of bodybuilders, a few minor creases could occur.

Stitching and Canvassing

Then, of course, there's the critical aspects of suit stitching and suit canvassing - but we've already covered these topics in our other blog articles (there's simply too much detail to go into here!).


Final Word

The cold, hard truth? If you want to look like you just stepped off the runway in your new suit, there’s only one way to guarantee a perfect fit. Have. It. Custom. Made.

As mentioned earlier, no two men are proportioned the same, so why buy a suit that might have been designed to fit an overweight, slump-shouldered suit factory worker when you could BOOK YOUR FITTING with us and have it tailored by experts. You see what we did there? We told you we liked to blow our own trumpet; we are damn good at what we do, after all.

Image Credit © Hurricanehank | Dreamstime.com© Dmitry Kalinovsky | Dreamstime.com © Rob Van Esch | Dreamstime.com © Francesco Mou | Dreamstime.com


We tailor make mens suits, jackets and shirts for all occasions. Each garment is custom designed, precisely made-to-measure and is guaranteed to fit you perfectly. Unlike others, we offer you end-to-end service and a personalised styling session where we take the time to understand your needs to ensure you get the colour, style and fit you want.

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Steve Fambo

Hats off to the team at Montagio Custom Tailoring Sydney. I was immediately impressed once I stepped into their boutique showroom... more »

Scott Lasak

The suit and shirts I received were terrific and much better quality than ones I've found in stores off the rack. I would absolutely recommend them... more »

Yun Zhi Lin

I would highly recommend Montagio for anyone else planning a wedding or looking for a trendy tailor made suit... more »

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