Section: Essential Men's Suit Guide - Blog
We’ve all fallen into that too-good-to-be-true trap. You spot a bargain so unbelievable that...well, you know how it goes. If we’re honest, we all have a horror suit in the back of the wardrobe. To avoid making that mistake again, check out our cheat sheet for telling the Yugos from the Bentleys when it comes to suit shopping.
Seriously, if the assistant in whatever men's store you’ve wandered into asks you this question, it’s time to turn on your heels and do your best Usain Bolt impression. You'll never see tags on well-made suits bearing the letters S, M, or L. This is a surefire sign that whatever garment (we hate call to it a suit) you’re about to invest your hard earned cash in was slapped together by a machine in some factory.
Take a peek inside a pair of well-tailored suit pants, like those made by Montagio (we like to blow our own trumpet occasionally,) and you'll notice there seems to a fair bit of wasted material. It just hangs there and looks like we forgot to finish the job and cut it off.
However, the rationale here is that with the average man’s penchant for the finer things in life like the odd scotch or a large steak, chances are you'll need to let those pants out eventually. Let's connect the dots now: lengthening pant hems or letting out the waist are the reasons for the extra material. Most mass suit manufacturers skip this step to cut costs.
Ever heard the expression it’s all in the shoulders? Well, when it comes to the fit of a suit there is no truer gauge than the shoulder fit. Don’t let an amateur fill your head with waffle about how the gathering or creases in the shoulders will fall out as you wear your tailored suit. Another explanation you might hear is it’s because you’re wearing a jumper, although why you’d wear a jumper when suit shopping is a mystery.
A well-fitted suit should have smooth shoulder lines. We understand all men - regardless of height or weight - have different sized and shaped shoulders and a different posture, but it seems cheap suit manufacturers do not understand this simple concept of human evolution – no two men are exactly alike. Suits should fit snugly, yet comfortably around the shoulders with minimal if any bulges, creases or gathers. Of course, there is an exception: for those "hard to fit" body shapes such as those of bodybuilders, a few minor creases could occur.
Then, of course, there's the critical aspects of suit stitching and suit canvassing - but we've already covered these topics in our other blog articles (there's simply too much detail to go into here!).
The cold, hard truth? If you want to look like you just stepped off the runway in your new suit, there’s only one way to guarantee a perfect fit. Have. It. Custom. Made.
As mentioned earlier, no two men are proportioned the same, so why buy a suit that might have been designed to fit an overweight, slump-shouldered suit factory worker when you could BOOK YOUR FITTING with us and have it tailored by experts. You see what we did there? We told you we liked to blow our own trumpet; we are damn good at what we do, after all.
Montagio did a great job on wedding suits for me and my two groomsmen. Bally provided us with fantastic service and the result was definitely superior to an off-the-rack option... more »
I have bought a total of 11 pieces custom made so far - quality and attention to detail is spectacular, material choice is broad and the input customers have in creating the exact look they want is a great experience... more »
I went back for another suit, a few shirts and some ties. Outstanding! I had so many complements on my new suit yesterday! more »