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How to Choose the Best Suit Fabric

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Section: Essential Men's Suit Guide - Blog

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Few things compare to the feeling of comfort and confidence of slipping into a bespoke suit; however, there is a process involved in getting to that final step. You can't just pop into your tailor's showroom and walk out with a suit.

You must get measured, pick out fabrics, and choose your styling details. You should know how to spot quality in suiting fabrics so you choose the right materials and get your money's worth in your bespoke suit.

Typically, when you order a tailor made men's suit, the proportion and fit are dictated by your body. However, the climate, the occasion, and the image you want to project also impact fabric selections.

Suits are usually made of wool because:

  • Wool drapes beautifully
  • Maintains its form reliably
  • Is either spun (from raw fibre into yarn) or woven (from yarn into fabric)
  • Is lightweight and breathable or warm and cosy

Additionally, worsted wool goes through a finishing process that leaves it smooth and shiny.

Suiting Categories and Fineness

Suitings are categorised by fineness. The yarn number (e.g. 90s) originally meant the number of 560-yard spools a spinner could get out of a pound of raw wool at the thickness in question. Three-digit numbers earned the prefix “Super”.

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Finer yarns are smoother in appearance, softer to the touch, and produce lighter fabrics. They are also more expensive, less durable, and prone to wrinkling.

  • 80s wool: Makes suitings that are perfect for work
  • Super 100s wool: Provides a higher degree of luxury
  • Super 120s wool: Is incredibly smooth

Fabric Weights

The weight of the fabric e.g. 283 grams (10 oz), is what a yard of the material weighs. Therefore, heavier fabrics are warmer than lighter ones. Suitings that weigh 283 – 319 grams (10 – 12 oz) are ideal for spring and fall. Lighter fabrics (often called “tropical” wool) without any specific weights are as cool as shorts and perfect for summer. Flannel and tweed – weighing between 397 – 510 grams (14 – 18 oz) – are best for winters.

Wool flannel is not finished the same way worsted wool is. Therefore, it can be softer and even slightly fuzzy. As such, it can be heavy for winter or light for spring, fall and summer. Flannel was the fabric of choice for corporate men post World War II and even today, it retains its position of prominence in corporate attire.

Choosing Suiting Fabrics

If you own an expensive luxury car that needs maintenance, you'll probably take it to an expert because you want to get the best advice and protect your investment. When buyingbespoke suits, you'll want to follow the same rationale.

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Hook up with a renowned master tailor and let him or her guide you through the process. Here's some things to discuss with your tailor when choosing a fabric for your bespoke suit:

  • Will this fabric keep me comfortable regardless of weather conditions?
  • How versatile is it?
  • How long will it stay in style?

If it's been a long time since you donned your suit and walked into the business arena with a confident swagger, then it's been too long since you sought the advice of the men of Montagio Custom Tailoring.

Our mission is to create a bespoke suit for you that makes you look damn good and feel like a king. So, if you're ready to take on the world and put forth your best image, make an appointment today to get measured for that suit.

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We tailor make mens suits, jackets and shirts for all occasions. Each garment is custom designed, precisely made-to-measure and is guaranteed to fit you perfectly. Unlike others, we offer you end-to-end service and a personalised styling session where we take the time to understand your needs to ensure you get the colour, style and fit you want.

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Simon Frazer

Montagio did a great job on wedding suits for me and my two groomsmen. Bally provided us with fantastic service and the result was definitely superior to an off-the-rack option... more »

Kiran Dosanjh

I have bought a total of 11 pieces custom made so far - quality and attention to detail is spectacular, material choice is broad and the input customers have in creating the exact look they want is a great experience... more »

Roy Soliman

I went back for another suit, a few shirts and some ties. Outstanding! I had so many complements on my new suit yesterday! more »


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